The global suncare market has seen immense growth in the year 2024. The suncare market stood at around $15 billion USD and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6% for the forecasted period 2025-2030. Incorporating multifunctional properties in suncare has been a highlight of the beauty industry. Within the context of the global suncare market, multifunctional products account for an estimated 10-15% of the segment. However, apart from face & body sunscreens, hair and scalp protectants such as SPF hair sprays, leave-in conditioners with UV filters, and scalp sunscreens are emerging as a growing segment in multifunctional suncare within the personal care industry.
In suncare formulations, solvents are important ingredients in suncare products as they help disperse active ingredients, ensure they work effectively, and also prevent separation or crystallization. Specifically in sunscreen formulations, solvents, which are also called UV filter solubilizers, usually make up about 5-20% of the total formula. Their main function is to dissolve solid UV filters, which are crucial for providing sun protection. The effectiveness of a solvent in dissolving UV filters depends on the type of filters used; there are mostly two types of chemical UV filters, which absorb the sun’s radiation and convert it into heat, which eventually releases in the air. On the other hand, physical UV filters act like a shield and reflect the UV radiation.
People are now viewing suncare from a fresh perspective. Sunscreen is no longer just for sun protection; consumers are seeking unique benefits as well. With more and more people spending time in front of digital screens, the skincare industry is addressing the problem of blue light (HEV light) impact on the skin. In the past, sunscreens were developed to shield the skin from UV radiation, and now the aim is shifting to shielding the skin from blue light and UV radiation. Currently, brands are still exploring this field, as it remains a very new and emerging trend in the market.
Multifunctional Suncare Making Waves in the Market
Multifunctionality in suncare basically means incorporating additional skincare benefits into suncare products beyond UV protection. These benefits often include hydration, anti-aging properties, blue-light defense, antioxidant support, soothing effects, or even spot reduction. Consumers are seeking products with multifunctionality that can support holistic skin health in a single formulation, and due to this shift in consumer preference, formulators are prioritizing multifunctionality.
MDP+ has introduced a new product called the Hyaluronic UV Clear Sunscreen. The formula is enriched with hyaluronic acid, known for its excellent hydrating properties. and ceramides. Shiseido has introduced its Ultimate Sun Protector Lotion SPF 60+, designed for high-performance sun protection. The formula is enriched with five types of algae, provides hydration that lasts, and helps calm skin prone to breakouts. Personal Touch Skincare has launched Mucin SPF 50+++, a sunscreen that combines the skin-healing benefits of snail mucin with the antioxidant power of glutathione.
Anti-aging benefits are being prioritized in sunscreen. Sunscreens offering anti-aging benefits powered by ingredients such as peptides, retinol, and niacinamide are becoming popular. For example, Kiehl’s has introduced Better Screen UV Serum. This serum is enriched with collagen peptide, an ingredient that smooths skin, restores firmness, and helps improve skin texture. La Roche-Posay has introduced Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum, and this product contains 10% niacinamide to provide anti-aging and skin-brightening properties.
NeuroCalm-infused suncare products are a novel innovation entering the market. These suncare solutions not only protect the skin but also promote mental well-being, addressing stress and anxiety while caring for the skin.
The increase in hybrid formulations is revolutionizing the suncare market and introducing flexibility and creativity to consumers. Especially sunscreen-infused makeup in hybrid formulation has been growing rapidly, not just because of consumer preference but also due to increased awareness about skin health and the long-term impact of sun damage. As people become more conscious of the risks of prolonged sun exposure, the beauty industry is responding with products that offer both cosmetic benefits and protection. Sunscreen-infused makeup, such as tinted sunscreens, BB creams with SPF, and foundations with SPF, is now being infused even in lip care. Hustle Beauty has recently launched SPF 30 Setting Powder, which is a hybrid makeup-suncare product that works as both a sunscreen and a setting powder for makeup. Black Girl Sunscreen has launched a new lip product, Make It Pop Sungloss Shades SPF 50, which offers both sun protection and vibrant color for melanin-rich skin. EltaMD has expanded its UV Clear and UV Daily sunscreen lines to include Deep Tint versions for deeper skin tones.
Another growing trend is hair and scalp protectants, with SPF-infused sprays and mists designed to guard against UV damage to hair and the scalp. These innovations reflect a shift toward products that offer multiple benefits, making suncare easier and more effective for everyday use. For example, Naked Sundays (Australia) has launched a world-first sunscreen product specifically designed for the hair and scalp called UV Hair Protectant Mist.
Sustainability in Multifunctional Suncare
Chemical UV filters are majorly used in suncare products as compared to the physical UV filters and make up 10-20% of their formulation. Oxybenzone is one of the widely used chemical filters and is highly regulated as well. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) of the European Commission has determined that oxybenzone poses notable risks to consumer health. Avobenzone and octinoxate are other commonly used filters that are highly regulated. The FDA has confirmed that octinoxate is safe and effective for use in sunscreens at concentrations of up to 7.5%.
Meeting regulatory standards and the rising consumer interest in sustainability is pushing formulators toward biodegradable solutions such as mineral-based UV filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) and natural UV absorbers (ferulic acid and cinnamic acid derivatives). Many biodegradable components, such as zinc oxide, offer UV protection while soothing and repairing the skin. Babyganics is launching a sheer-blend mineral sunscreen lotion free from oxybenzone, octinoxate, parabens, and nanoparticles.
Apart from biodegradable solutions, reef-safe filters are coming as a replacement for oxybenzone and octinoxate. 4ocean, in partnership with Stream2Sea, has developed Reef-Safe Sunscreen Balm, which is 100% mineral-based and is used as a substitute for oxybenzone-based sunscreen.
Synthetic emollients are also used widely in suncare as they provide sensory benefits as well as enhance the penetration of active ingredients, emollients, especially silicone-based ones such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane. Coconut oil, shea butter, and jojoba oil are being explored as natural alternatives to these silicone-based emollients in suncare. Palm oil can also be used in suncare as an emollient and solvent, serving as a renewable option for formulators. It helps to moisturize the skin while supporting the delivery of active ingredients like UV filters. These alternatives are not being extensively used by formulators yet, as silicone-based emollients are way cheaper than natural ones and do not have formulation stability concerns.
What Lies Ahead?
Industry should focus on how carefully balanced formulations can deliver hydration, anti-aging, and UV protection without compromising SPF efficacy. Challenges with Multiple Ingredients, Potential trade-offs, such as reduced photostability or ingredient interactions, and how advancements in encapsulation and delivery systems are addressing these issues.
Using renewable ingredients to create valuable products is one of the highlights of 2024, and upcycling has been an essential part of it. There is a concept of circular beauty being developed, and the brands are looking at the possibility of repurposing the ingredients to cater to diverse consumer demand. This shift is not only promoting sustainability but also enabling the production of multifunctional and cost-effective products by reducing the need for new raw materials, lowering production costs, and creating formulations that serve multiple purposes in one product. Currently, brands have not extensively started using upcycled ingredients in suncare, but in the coming years, we can expect companies to adopt this practice.
This article was originally published in the March issue of COSSMA
