Silicones shaped the sensory language of skin and hair care for decades. Slip, spread, gloss, and smooth payoff became almost inseparable from dimethicone, D5, D6, amodimethicone, and elastomer networks. Over the past few months, the scenario started to shift. Regulations drew more attention. Brands set new sustainability goals. Material suppliers brought forward options with lighter footprints and more transparent sourcing.
These movements appeared through new launches, updated product communication, and fresh technical data shared between September and December 2025. The result is a growing set of bio-based volatiles, natural esters, and new elastomer systems positioned as practical replacements for key silicone functions across both leave-on and rinse-off formats.
Bio-based Volatile Emollients
Volatile emollients give some of the clearest hints of this change. In September 2025, Pilot Chemical Company and RiKarbon expanded their UpSycal line. They brought in BA14 and BA17. These materials were made to match the dry, light slip of D5 but with renewable sourcing as well as more favorable biodegradation data. Their introduction resonated with a rise in open brand communication about silicone-free routes.
In October 2025, CeraVe’s Gentle Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner gained attention after coverage in Allure. The brand described a plant-derived silicone alternative used for slip as well as ease of combing without the buildup sometimes linked with traditional silicones.
Skin care also puts the shift toward volatile silicone replacements. BASF’s Cetiol Ultimate already appeared in sensory comparison charts through 2024. And it continued to be evaluated through mid-2025. These charts plotted its spreading curve next to D5 and D6 and placed it as a renewable option with fast absorption and a dry after-feel.
Formulation notes circulated throughout 2025 encouraged chemists to adjust the balance between hemisqualane and Cetiol Ultimate in emulsifier-free systems. These notes pointed out that small shifts in ratios could change glide, reduce drag, and offer a predictable path to silicone-free slip. The guidance helped confirm that low-residue textures do not require classic volatile silicones and can be designed through blends of light bio-based materials.
Naturally Derived Elastomer Gels
The next major signal comes from elastomer gels. These networks create the soft, cushioned feel that anchors many primers, hybrid moisturizers, and blurring bases. Momentive’s Harmonie NatuVel drew steady attention from June through September 2025. It is described as a fully naturally derived elastomer gel. It is positioned as a replacement for silicone elastomers in both skin care and color formats.
In September 2025, Ter Chemicals Europe featured NatuVel in its technical updates. They noted its suitability for high-filter sunscreen systems as well as high-pigment emulsions, where spread and optical smoothness matter. In October 2025, Korean trade coverage from in-cosmetics Korea showcased samples of these naturally derived elastomer gels, reflecting interest in regions that value light, humidity-ready sensoriality.
Hair care adopted these gels more slowly, but visible changes took place. Smoothing creams, blow-dry balms, and lightweight styling products used small amounts of plant-based elastomer gels to support flexible film formation and subtle polish. The gels helped control frizz and added a soft surface finish without the weight that some dimethicone elastomer systems can bring, especially on finer hair types. This showed that elastomer functions can transition to plant-derived networks when used at controlled levels.
Naturally Derived Esters and Plant-Silicone Systems
Natural esters held a central role in silicone replacement. In the last quarter of 2025, ingredient messages from mass, masstige, and salon brands repeatedly referred to “plant-derived silicone alternatives” in both new as well as updated formulas. In October 2025, CeraVe used this language in its conditioner range. Weleda’s Hydra Hair line, promoted in the same month, pointed to silicone-free conditioning supported by natural-origin esters. Living Proof updated several product descriptions. They described lightweight performance without silicones.
During this period, L’Oréal Paris Malaysia also promoted Elseve Hyaluron Pure Advanced Hydrating Shampoo. The product is silicone-free and positioned around clean, lightweight hydration, reflecting how brands in humid climates are shifting the sensorial story even when specific plant-derived alternatives are not named. In November 2025, Brillante Fine Hair Conditioner in Australia clearly named isoamyl laurate as its silicone alternative. Many solid conditioner bars launched or reformulated during this period used PlantSil and related esters to deliver slip in water-free bars. Indeed, it was an area of high interest for sustainability-focused consumers.
In skin care, these esters backed up glide, distribution, and uniformity in silicone-free emulsions and hybrid formats. Hemisqualane remained one of the most referenced materials in both consumer and technical platforms throughout 2025. Its quick absorption and clean after-feel made it suitable for day creams, serums, and lightweight moisturizers that formerly relied on volatile silicones. Cetiol Ultimate appeared regularly in 2024–2025 literature for its ability to support pigment spreading and even UV filter distribution. Isoamyl laurate appeared more widely in tinted and sunscreen formats, where its volatility and soft finish supported uniform film formation without the need for elastomeric silicone structures.
Regulatory and Sustainability Landscape
Regulatory activity throughout 2025 influenced material planning. This was even in the absence of broad silicone bans. In 2025, the European Commission released updated guidance for the microplastics restriction. The document refined definitions, clarified scope, and explained timelines relevant to polymer-containing cosmetics. In September 2025, the EU submitted a notification to the World Trade Organization. It hints at further adjustments under review. Most silicones do not fall under the microplastics definition. But the growing focus on persistence made companies think about longer-term compliance during early formulation stages.
In California, AB 60, usually called the Musk Reduction Act, was signed in 2025 and will prohibit several nitromusk fragrance ingredients in cosmetics from January 2027. Together with earlier California cosmetics laws that already restrict a broader list of EU-banned substances, this is prompting global brands to avoid more persistent fragrance and cyclic materials in new developments.
APAC regions did not have similar regulations. Still, supplier communication in Korea in October 2025 highlighted rising demand for natural sensorial materials and pointed to a market-driven push toward silicone alternatives even without direct regulatory pressure.
Formulation Outlook
By the end of 2025, it was evident that silicone alternatives could support sophisticated sensory design. Hair care formulas used volatile bio-based emollients together with modern cationic polymers to deliver detangling, shine, and softness with minimal buildup. Skin care formats adopted naturally derived elastomer gels to get the cushion and blur associated with silicone elastomers. Materials such as hemisqualane and Cetiol Ultimate support smooth glide and fast absorption in creams, serums, and sunscreens. These developments confirmed that silicone-free design is now a practical strategy rather than a compromise.
Conclusion
There is a clear stage in the evolution of silicone alternatives in skin and hair care. New ingredients, updated regulatory signals, and shifts in brand communication all point toward renewable and biodegradable systems that match the performance of dimethicone, D5, D6, and silicone elastomers. As brands focus on sensory clarity, environmental goals, and long-term compliance, silicone alternatives are moving into the core of formulation strategy. This transition is molding the next phase of global cosmetic innovation.
This article was originally published in COSSMA in Jan-Feb Issue 2026.
