Particulate matter, ozone, volatile
organic compounds, nitrogen- and sulfur-oxides, are examples of pollutants that
enter the skin’s pores and cause skin irritation, inflammation, oxygen
deprivation, clogging of pores, impairment of the skin barrier, and
dryness.
‘Anti-pollution’ is one of the newest
buzzwords in the personal care and cosmetics industries, and companies are
racing to market masks, sprays, and creams that promise to shield our skin and
hair from pollution-related damage. It also contributes to oxidative stress by
producing quinones, which interact with nanoparticles in the skin, depleting
its innate antioxidant defences, both enzymatic and non-enzymatic.
When these pollutants are exposed to
the skin repeatedly and frequently, they can cause premature ageing,
hyperpigmentation, acne, allergies, and skin cancer.
Using anti-pollution ingredients
effectively necessitates a deep comprehension of the mechanisms through which
they counteract the damaging effects of various environmental aggressors on
different skin types. Since pollution causes premature skin ageing,
manufacturers of anti-pollution products have always focused only on treating
the skin’s surface.
Nevertheless, in recent years, there
has been a push toward the development of novel solutions that could reach
deeper dermal layers and the cellular level.
About 2% of the active ingredients in
personal care products are anti-pollution ingredients. Some examples of
anti-pollution ingredients with one or more functionalities include Tremella
fuciformis extract, PEG 20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Crypthecodinium cohnii
extract, and activated charcoal.
These ingredients have the ability to
remove/ control the deposition or penetration of pollutants, reduce
inflammation, have antioxidant properties, chelate metals, and regulate
pathways involved in the synthesis of melanin. Combining the chemistries of
more than two such ingredients within a single product range can further
improve these qualities.
Formulating anti-pollution products
It is difficult to design ‘one size
fits all’ products that will ‘fit’ all consumers globally because of variances
in pollution levels and types, variations in skin types, and differences
in benefit expectations among consumers worldwide. However, by comprehending
the nature of contaminants and the mechanism by which they damage the skin,
general principles for developing new products can be established.
The formulation process involves
selecting potent ingredients that offer multifaceted protection. Antioxidants
such as vitamins C and E play a crucial role in neutralizing free radicals
generated by pollution, preventing oxidative stress and premature ageing.
Additionally, botanical extracts like
green tea, moringa, and algae are gaining prominence for their detoxifying and
protective properties. Formulators often integrate ingredients that strengthen
the skin barrier, enhance hydration, and counteract inflammation. Furthermore,
the inclusion of anti-UV agents helps guard against sun-induced damage,
complementing the overall protective profile.
Delivering anti-pollution skincare
should aim to have a gentle cleansing action to get rid of the thick layer of
dirt caused by air pollution, while also incorporating high antioxidant levels
into the overall skincare product. Adding a lot of sebum to skin care
products is another way to balance the skin’s oil production.
Functionality for barrier repair is
also important to consider since skin exposed to pollution has low cholesterol
levels. Last but not least, a lot of attention needs to be paid to the
products’ pH levels to ensure that they fall within the range that is
appropriate for normal, healthy skin, which is between 4 and 6.5.
Active ingredients and related
mechanisms
Although skin care products use
almost 50% of the anti-pollution ingredients on the market, their use in sun
protection, colour cosmetics, and hair care products has increased dramatically
in recent years. Prominent end-uses for reducing pollution include balancing
toners, deep cleaning products that do not alter the pH balance of the skin,
and natural oil-based cleansers. Due to the greater demand, there is some
competition amongst ingredient manufacturers in APAC, but none at all in North
America or Europe.
The anti-pollution trend in skincare
uses a variety of ingredients, including exfoliants like rice bran and coffee
beans, as well as solid adsorbents like kaolin, magnesium aluminium
silicate and activated charcoal.
These elements are especially made to
control how airborne contaminants settle and penetrate the skin. In order to
help remove pollutants from the skin and keep them from adhering, the
above-mentioned ingredients function as strong surfactants and form barriers.
In tandem with this targeted mechanism,
a parallel approach involves reinforcing the skin’s natural defences and
optimizing hydration. A blend of skin-identical long-chain and short-chain
ceramides, along with microbiome extracts from Tremella fuciformis and Chondrus
crispus (red algae), and floral extracts from Leontopodium alpinum, is commonly
utilized.
Together, these factors contribute to
preserving the skin’s ideal moisture content and strengthening its natural
barrier, which builds a strong basis for anti-pollution solutions/ mechanisms.
Expanding the scope of the
anti-pollution trend, a new dimension emerges with ingredients recognized for
their antioxidant properties. Plant extracts derived from Schinus molle (myrtle
leaf) and Camellia sinensis (white tea) stand out as noteworthy examples,
contributing to the overall protective and revitalizing effects. These
ingredients play a crucial role in shielding cell membranes, empowering the
skin to fend off the detrimental effects of pollution.
To achieve anti-pollution properties,
personal care ingredients primarily work through two mechanisms: anti-ageing
and anti-inflammatory effects.
Skincare holds a 75% market share in
the anti-ageing sector, with hair care coming in second at 18%. Nonetheless, a
faster rate of growth ˜7.3% – is anticipated for the hair care market by 2027.
One prominent participant in this industry is BASF. Furthermore, North America
accounts for the largest portion of the market (~35%), followed by Europe (
~27%), in terms of regional participation in this mechanism.
With regard to anti-inflammatory
qualities, the skincare product, which presently holds 78% of the market share,
is expected to grow at the fastest rate, 4.7%. Many suppliers—including BASF,
Evonik, DSM and Clariant—are actively involved in this market. Europe has the
largest market for this mechanism (~45%), followed by APAC (~30%).
A new wave of innovation has emerged
in the ever-changing landscape of personal care to combat the negative effects
of pollution on the skin. Recent launches in the beauty industry have
introduced a variety of anti-pollution ingredients intended to protect and
rejuvenate the skin, addressing the growing concern about environmental
stressors.
Last year, TRI-K Industries has
introduced EssentiaTein Protect, a revolutionary vegan hair care technology
derived from upcycled rice, baobab, and sustainable amaranth. With a
proprietary enzymatic system, it provides superior protection against pollution
and UV damage while providing enhanced moisturization and shine at a 1%
formulation level.
The mechanism of the product
involves forming a protective film on the hair, removing dust particles,
and combating environmental ageing.
Meanwhile, Berkem’s Urban’Hair, a
natural-based solution derived from raspberry leaves, has entered the growing
market for anti-pollution hair care. This ingredient sourced from sustainable
agriculture in France has been shown in clinical trials to combat urban stress,
reduce oxidative stress, and address scalp irritation.
lsewhere, Merck has launched RonaCare
ReviMer, a cosmetic active ingredient for the Asia-Pacific market derived from
the brown algae Fucus serratus. This has anti-pollution properties, improves
biomechanical properties, and protects hyaluronic acid for firmer, more elastic
skin with fewer wrinkles.
These products, positioned as
anti-ageing and skin vitality boosters, can be incorporated into a variety of
topical formulations, aligning with consumer preferences in the cosmetic
industry for natural and sustainable solutions.
Sustainability drive in anti-pollution
products
The sustainability trend has
permeated every aspect of our lives, and anti-pollution personal care
ingredients are no exception. As consumers become more environmentally
conscious, there is an increasing demand for skincare solutions that not only
protect the skin from pollution but also adhere to sustainable and eco-friendly
principles.
This paradigm shift has resulted in
novel approaches and the use of responsibly sourced, nature-inspired
ingredients in the development of anti-pollution products.
Botanical marvels
Green brands are turning to botanical
extracts and plant-derived ingredients known for their natural detoxifying
properties. Moringa, a plant known for its antioxidant-rich leaves, is making
its way into anti-pollution formulations. Purisoft LS 9726, a BASF
anti-pollution peptide derived from Moringa seeds, has undergone clinical
validation demonstrating its efficacy in shielding the skin from pollution.
This peptide not only purifies the skin but also helps to improve skin complexion,
resulting in a vibrant and healthy glow.
Upcycled elegance
Another noteworthy approach is using
upcycled ingredients, minimizing waste, and maximizing the potential of
by-products. Rice bran, for example, is a common by-product that comes from rice
processing. Extracts from upcycled rice bran help to reduce food waste while
also providing anti-pollution benefits, making them a sustainable option for
skincare formulations. Clariant’s Active Ingredient, Eosidin, protects skin
from the effects of indoor pollution while having a low environmental impact.
Algae’s vital role
Algae, a powerhouse of nutrients and
a resilient aquatic plant, is gaining prominence in anti-pollution skincare.
Algae extracts derived from sustainable sources are high in antioxidants,
vitamins, and minerals, acting as a natural defence against environmental
stressors. The sustainable cultivation of algae is consistent with the
eco-friendly skincare ethos.
Eco-friendly manufacturing processes
Beyond ingredient choices, the
sustainability trend extends to the manufacturing processes. Companies are
adopting environmentally friendly production methods to reduce energy
consumption and minimize water usage. This dedication to green practices
ensures that the product’s entire lifecycle reflects a commitment to the
planet.
Packaging innovation
The sustainability journey is
incomplete without addressing packaging concerns. Brands are increasingly
choosing recyclable and biodegradable packaging materials to reduce their
products’ environmental impact. Some are even looking into refillable packaging
options to reduce waste even further. One such example is the vegan packaging
range from Lys Packaging.
Associated claims and clinical
testing
The three main goals of personal care
products with anti-pollution claims are detoxification (cleaning), rebalancing,
and protection. For a better understanding, these include:
– Skin detox with a curative action. Cleansing,
detoxifying, exfoliating, purifying, and oxygenizing.
– Rebalance the skin with a curative action.
Soothing, moisturizing, nourishing, pH-regulator, sebo-regulator,
complexion, microcirculation, anti-ageing, and anti-sagging.
– Protect and isolate the skin with preventive
action. Anti-UV, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, anti-particles, barrier
integrity, anti-inflammatory, and anti-spot.
Anti-pollution tests are not
currently standardized, regulated, or reproducible internationally, and there
is no consensus on the best pollution biomarkers to use when assessing the
efficacy of anti-pollution products.
However, to distinguish products in a
crowded and fiercely competitive market and gain a competitive edge in front of
customers, in vitro clinical test data would be useful. Some of these
techniques include:
– MTT cell viability assay. To demonstrate the
protective effect of cosmetic actives against the reduction of cell
viability induced by pollutants. The assay utilizes a yellow tetrazolium
salt, MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide),
which is converted into purple formazan crystals by viable cells with
active mitochondria. The greater the cell viability in the presence of an
anti-pollution product, the greater its potential efficacy in protecting
skin cells from the damaging effects of environmental pollutants
– MicroRNA expression profiles. To investigate
the epigenetic modulation of skin cells after exposure to various
pollutants to better understand the mechanism of environmental toxicity.
This test is a useful tool for assessing the complex molecular changes
that occur in skin cells as a result of environmental exposure. Understanding
epigenetic modulation via microRNA expression profiles aids in the
development of targeted strategies for skin protection and anti-pollution
formulations in the skincare industry.
– Inductively coupled plasma
mass spectrometry (ICPMS): Detection and quantification of metal
traces in skin samples. The principle behind this method is to atomize and
ionize the metal elements in the skin sample using inductively coupled
plasma, a high-temperature ionized gas. The resulting ions are then
introduced into a mass spectrometer and separated based on their
mass-to-charge ratio.
– Peroxidized squalene assay. To measure the
amount of oxidized squalene in a sample.
Squalene is a naturally occurring
compound found in human sebum and some skincare products, and its oxidation can
indicate exposure to environmental factors such as pollution. The basic idea
behind this assay is to determine the degree of peroxidation, which refers to
the oxidative degradation of squalene molecules.
Conclusion
Anti-pollution skincare and cosmetic
products have grown significantly in the last few years due to the declining
quality of the world’s air and the increasing public awareness of the harmful
effects of various environmental contaminants on the skin.
Both traditional (rice bran, coffee
beans, kaolin and activated charcoal) and novel (myrtle leaf and white tea)
anti-pollution ingredients for personal care are in high demand and are
expected to grow at a rapid 5.5% annual rate by 2027.
Microbiome-based formulations are the
main force behind most of the innovations. Innovative ingredients like natural
or organic ingredients and certifications from pertinent organizations related
to fighting pollution will advance along with the anti-pollution sector.
***
This article was originally published in March Issue of Personal Care Magazine.
